Inside Herzbaracke, Zurich’s intimate floating theater

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When the cold settles over Zurich and a light mist skims the lake, an unusual wooden boat with warm-lit windows pulls up by the Bellevue promenade. It isn’t a café or a museum but Herzbaracke, a floating theater that turns the waterside into a small pocket of winter magic each year.

A theater on the water: how it works

Herzbaracke operates as a fully fledged theater—the only difference is that its stage floats. The season opens on November 1 and runs through March 9. After the winter months, the boat moves to Rapperswil, where it welcomes guests until April 20.

The auditorium seats just 40 people, so every evening unfolds in near-domestic comfort. The interior echoes a salon from another century: wooden paneling, soft light, carpets, vintage toys, music machines and even a real organ—details that foster intimacy and warmth.

What happens on board

The evening begins with dinner. Waitresses greet guests in outfits styled after early twentieth-century fashion, and the menu offers four courses. Then comes the main act. The program shifts from night to night—music, poetry, storytelling, and short theatrical sketches. The draw isn’t star power but the mood that takes shape inside this small, floating room.

Who is behind the project

The driving force behind Herzbaracke is Federico Emanuel Pfaffen. He not only runs the project but also welcomes the audience, presents the program and sets that warm, almost family-like tone. At 76, he is considering handing the theater to successors to focus on a new idea: creating a theater in an old church.

100 tons on the water

The structure weighs a substantial 92 tons. Each year it is hauled across the lake—a task made trickier by waves and weather. That unhurried movement, and the theater’s bond with the water, feel like part of its identity, as if it had sailed in from another era.

Why it’s interesting

Herzbaracke isn’t a tourist attraction but a slice of urban culture that values comfort, creativity and a touch of make-believe. Even if a winter trip to Zurich isn’t on the agenda, the idea itself resonates: a warm space for art can surface anywhere, even in the heart of the cold season.