How to plan power outlets at home: room-by-room advice

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Outlets tend to stay invisible—right up until there aren’t enough of them or they end up in the most inconvenient spots. The scenario is familiar: the renovation is done, the furniture is in, and the one socket you need has vanished behind a wardrobe. There’s only one reliable way to avoid this: plan ahead.

When extension cords appear, something went wrong

If extension leads start crawling across the floor, that’s the first sign the layout was misjudged. Wiring should run strictly vertically and horizontally so drilling into walls remains safe. Zigzags and improvised fixes not only spoil the look, they make the system vulnerable.

How many outlets you actually need

The kitchen is the main power hog—this room concentrates the most appliances. The bare minimum is a fridge, stove, oven, dishwasher, microwave, hood, kettle, and coffee machine. That’s eight outlets already. Add a toaster, blender, and a freezer, and you’re looking at 12–15 points. Electricians recommend feeding the cooktop directly from the panel. Small countertop appliances are best served by a dedicated block of 4–5 outlets on the backsplash—you won’t regret having a few extra.

The living room is your entertainment hub

TV, console, router, speakers, chargers—all need power. For the TV corner, plan not just a standard outlet but also a network jack. To keep cables out of sight, route them through an in-wall channel. One small but essential detail is a socket near the sofa, set just below the armrest, about 30 cm off the floor. It’s the one you’ll reach for every day—for gadgets or a floor lamp.

Bedroom: comfort comes first

Ideally, have two outlets on each side of the bed. A phone, reading light, headphones, tablet—everything should charge within arm’s reach. Choose the bed in advance: headboards are often wider than the mattress, and sockets can end up hidden right behind them.

Bathroom: safety only

Two outlets are enough here—one for a hair dryer and one for an electric toothbrush. The washing machine connection should be accessible so you can unplug it quickly if needed. The non-negotiables are IP44 protection and an RCD in the panel—this is what can prevent an electric shock.

Hallway: a small space with big needs

Plan at least two outlets: for a vacuum cleaner and a shoe dryer. If you use a robot vacuum, reserve a charging spot—many tuck it inside a closet.

Work desk: better to plan in advance

Under the desk you need at least three outlets (system unit, monitor, and one spare). Above the desk, add two more for a laptop and phone charger. Include a network jack if you want a stable connection.

Balcony: a useful detail people often forget

If the loggia becomes a home office or a relaxation corner, plan for 2–3 outlets. In winter that’s a heater, in summer a fan—simple comforts that make the space usable.

Technical details that matter

The right height

Standard:

• outlets — 30 cm from the floor,
• switches — 90 cm.

In the kitchen, raise outlets above the countertop by 10–15 cm. Measurements are always taken to the center of the group, not the edge.

Concealed wiring

Run cables in wall chases strictly vertically and horizontally. After installation, photograph the walls—those pictures can save you from accidental damage when drilling later.

Which cables to choose

• 2.5 mm² is suitable for standard outlets.
• 4–6 mm² for heavy-duty appliances.
• Cutting corners on cable quality risks overheating and fire.

Pro electrician tips

• Start with a socket layout for every room.
• Set heights and positions with the furniture plan in mind.
• Choose grounded outlets.
• Install an RCD and circuit breakers.
• Route cables only vertically.
• Use cable channels where wiring can’t be concealed.
• Photograph the wiring after installation.
• Test every outlet when you accept the work.
• Avoid placing sockets where access is poor.