23:01 05-12-2025
Bermamyt Plateau Guide: Elbrus views, 4x4 access, sunrise
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Plan a trip to the Bermamyt Plateau: 4x4 access, sunrise and sunset tips, costs, stays in Kislovodsk or Pyatigorsk, safety notes, and Elbrus viewpoints.
The Bermamyt Plateau is often named among the most spectacular vantage points in the North Caucasus. From here, Mount Elbrus feels close enough to touch. Getting to that view, however, takes some effort: the area is wild, the roads rough, and the weather likes to make its own rules.
This guide lays out how to reach the plateau and what to keep in mind before you go.
Where it is and what it’s known for
Bermamyt is part of the Rocky Ridge in Karachay-Cherkessia. Its name translates as “crooked knee,” perhaps for the sinuous gorges, abrupt cliffs, and uneven slopes. The highest point is Bolshoy Bermamyt (2,592 m). Nearby lies Maly Bermamyt, a convenient natural viewing platform. From the top you see valleys, alpine meadows, and pastures dotted with horses and cows that look toy-like from above.
The place remains largely untamed: shepherds’ huts, wind, stone—and a deep, resonant silence. Many come simply to sit by the edge and let the calm do its work; some views ask for nothing more.
Historically, Bermamyt figured among the classic routes of the Kislovodsk resorts. There was a hotel and an observation deck here, and locals hosted evenings of national music. Accounts mention visitors such as Lermontov and Chekhov.
Legends that live on the plateau
Many legends cling to Bermamyt. One of the best known tells of the girl Beshtau and two rivals—Elbrus and Mashuk. In that tale, Mashuk split Elbrus’s head, and Bermamyt, the faithful dog, stayed by his master’s side forever at the foot of the mountain—hence the poetic nickname, the faithful dog of Elbrus.
Another story speaks of two dogs—Maly and Bolshoy Bermamyt—guarding the sleep of wise Elbrus, ruler of the Narts. The gods turned them into stone sentinels at the giant’s feet. The rock outcrops do resemble animal silhouettes, and the landscape seems made for myth.
Getting there
There is no proper paved road to the plateau—only dirt tracks, fields, and tight switchbacks. That’s why most visitors go with guides in 4x4s.
Important notes:
- there is no public transport to the plateau;
- after rain the road turns into rutted mud;
- regular cars sometimes make it, but much depends on weather and road conditions;
- the climb takes 2–3 hours, even though it’s only about 27 km.
Tours usually start from Pyatigorsk or Kislovodsk. Vehicles typically seat 5–6 people, and drivers often agree to stop at the most photogenic spots.
Sunrise and sunset trips
Sunrise tours are the crowd favorite. Travelers set out a couple of hours before dawn to watch the first light catch Elbrus. Sunset is no less stirring: mist, a pink sky, and long shadows give the scene a dramatic edge that lingers in memory.
Costs
Visiting the plateau is free. There are no fees for entry or parking—no checkpoints. You only pay for a guide or transfer if you’re not driving yourself.
Where to stay
Most travelers choose:
- hotels in Kislovodsk,
- hotels in Pyatigorsk,
which is where most tours begin. The closest village to the plateau is Khasaut, where locals rent out rooms. There is also a nearby Bermamyt recreation base.
What travelers need to know
- Footwear and clothing: choose comfortable gear suited to uneven ground.
- Care on the rocks: trails are narrow, edges are sheer.
- Warm layers: it’s colder up top and the wind is strong.
- Snacks and water: the journey is long and there are no cafés.
- Dust mask: wind can kick up sand.
- Transport: the nearest airport is in Mineralnye Vody; from there, take a train or bus to Kislovodsk or Pyatigorsk.
Bermamyt is one of those corners of the Caucasus that hits hard—in the best way. Stark cliffs, profound quiet, and Elbrus filling the horizon make it easy to accept a bumpy dirt road and an early wake-up call.
If you want to see the Caucasus at its most powerful and beautiful, Bermamyt is an ideal place to start.